Los Barriles

As our journey continues down the Baja we were told to visit the East Cape. The activities include but are not limited to wind surfing, snorkeling, beach combing, and ATV riding the miles of beaches. Also, there is a large retirement community here. So we decided to let our little trailer rest for a while and rent something. Our friend, Pat, sent out an email to her friends in Buena Vista to see if anyone knew of a rental. We received two responses back.  We decided to rent a studio apartment overlooking the beach. The people we rent from have been full time residents here for the last 7 years. They retired from the airline industry where they were based out of Texas. They really don’t miss the states and are fortunate enough to be able to travel back to see family easily. The airport from here is only a 45 minute drive (unless you get stuck behind a slow moving semi-truck) because there are no stop signs between here and the airport. Plus it’s a very scenic drive.

One view along the beach.

Looking toward Los Barriles

Looking back toward Buena Vista.

The house we are staying at (apartment is above the garage)

This area began to grow back in the 1970s because it was the only place in the Baja that an American could get clear title when they bought property. Many of those brave souls who pioneered this place are still here. Most of the people we have met came in about 2004. Everyone has great stories about fishing, driving the Baja, and the hospitality they’ve experienced from the Mexican people they have encountered over the years.

One of the nicer hotels in Los Barriles (Las Palmas)

Overlooking Los Barriles at sunset

Looking out over the Sea of Cortez

We spend our days walking the beach (it’s possible to walk 10 miles in either direction), driving around the small town of Los Barriles on the ATV we rented from our hosts, going to the various events around town (for instance there is “open mike” on Wednesday nights at a local restaurant and the talent is quite good), meeting the other gringos, enjoying the beautiful sunrises and sunsets, and hiking in the desert hills. We attended the local church last week and went to the Easter Service on the beach at sunrise. It was quite spectacular seeing the sun rise as the pastor spoke of Christ rising again. Then we went to a breakfast potluck at a home on the beach. It was a good opportunity to meet some other Christians in town.

Our hosts have been kind enough to invite us over to meet some of their friends. During one of these visits four donkeys showed up at their gate looking for a hand out. Our host, Debbie, accommodated them by feeding them carrots. It was quite a sight.  The other thing we’ve enjoyed is playing cards. Every afternoon at 4:00 a group of about 14 people get together at someone’s house and play a game called “Up and Down the River”. Since Warren and I are very familiar with this game we got right into it!

Hello Donkeys!

Can we have carrots please

One at a time!

All four lined up patiently waiting for their treat

The other thing that our hosts invited us to do is take a long ATV ride out to a working lighthouse. We drove the ATVs on the dirt road to a town called La Ribera about 5 miles away to have lunch first. Then we rode the ATVs on the beach another 7 miles to the lighthouse. Just a few miles south of the lighthouse is the beach house of the infamous Jesse Ventura (he was the controversial Governor of Michigan or Minnesota). Unfortunately he wasn’t around so we parked our ATVs and watched for sea life. Then we headed back and this time we stayed on the beach the whole way. It’s incredible to ride along the beach for that many miles.

The working lighthouse

Taking a break in front of Jesse Ventura's house (Steve and Debbie, our hosts middle and left)

Warren along the beach during our long ATV ride

The reputation for the East Cape is that it is very windy. That is true for the months of January through mid-March. We’ve experienced a few days of wind but by this time of year the norm is to have a couple of days of wind and then 4 or 5 days of calm. When it’s calm the water looks like a lake and it’s easy to see the sting rays jumping and the dolphins playing out in the water. We haven’t seen any whales but then again it is a little late in the season for that.

We’ve made a couple of side trips to the little surrounding towns. One is called Triunfo. It is quite charming with cobblestone streets and an old mission that’s being revamped. There is a good restaurant there that makes artisan bread and pizzas in a wood burning oven. We haven’t tried the pizza but the bread is excellent! The owner is a biker dude who came to Mexico, married a beautiful Mexican woman and is now a reformed restaurant owner/baker (kind of reminds you of the Dave's Bread story). While we were there a bunch of school kids were ordering their pizzas to share. We also were surprised when a 10 year old boy drove up in a little pick-up truck, hopped out, delivered something to the restaurant, got back in the truck and drove away. 

One of the old buildings in Triunfo

The little famous restaurant

A neat art-deco house being built across the street from the restaurant

Hand carved wood doors (impressive)

Another thing we did was visit a family in Los Barriles that owns a house that they have turned into a kind of funky art museum. Over the last ten years they have created sculptures, furniture, and art work out of rocks and wood they found in the desert and on the beach. They see a rock, picture a face or an animal in it, paint it so the rest of us can see it, and voila-a new piece of art.  It’s pretty incredible. Their house was filled with these rock creatures. Most of the furniture is made from materials found in the desert. Apparently they only open their house to viewers once or twice a year. We were fortunate enough to be in town during one of the open houses. It was  so amazing I've included all the pictures I took and wish I had taken more.

This is a little spot the owners created in their yard

This depicts a story of the lost gold that is supposed to be hidden somewhere in the hills around here

The guards of their entry way

Some gecko lizards and an alligator head

Donkey sculptures

A sitting area in the yard

Some friends from Vancouver came to Cabo for Spring Break. We spent the afternoon at the pool at the Villa Estancia Resort where Don and Tammy were staying and then went to dinner at a restaraunt called Solomon's Landing located at the marina in Cabo. It was good to see familiar faces.

Dinner at Solomon's Landing

Tammy and Chris  (a couple of hot mamas)

One thing that we hope to do before leaving this area is visit Cabo Pulmo National Park. It is the only living coral reef in the western North America. We hope to snorkel there but the locals tell us to wait until May or June when the water warms up so you don’t need a wet suit.  Another thing we would like to do is go to a working ranch and ride horses. If you arrange it ahead of time, they even provide lunch. The owners take you out on trails in the hills where you can see some waterfalls. Yes, you read that right, waterfalls in the desert. Incredible! When or if we do these things I will definitely report back.