We officially began our trip down Baja California Sur on February 19th, 2012. Not without problems of course. Our friends had a snafu on their car insurance and it looked like we were going to have to delay our trip for a couple of days. However, they were able solve the problem and we started out at 11 a.m. from Chula Vista, California. The crossing at the border went well. The wait wasn’t too bad and the border patrol checked our trailer out and cleared us to go. It had been over 30 years since I (Paula) had been to Tijuana. There was an amazing amount of growth in the town but there is still a lot of noticeable poverty. The views from Highway 1 along the coast were amazing. We used the toll road for most of the way. It saved some time and was in good shape. However, the toll road ends in Ensenada. There we were detoured off the main highway and forced to go through town because of a parade (we didn’t know they celebrated President’s Day). We lost about a half hour due to the detour. It was a little hairy going through the heavy traffic while trying to keep up with our friends. The locals were nice enough to let us in when we needed to change lanes. We were happy to get through as quickly as we did.
The next leg proved to be the most spectacular. The valley south of Ensenada was surprisingly green and the mountains were tall and majestic. The weather was ominous. We didn’t get rain but it looked as if it would pour on us at any moment. We passed through Santo Thomas and discovered a vineyard that went on and on. I am not sure about the wine but the vineyard was quite impressive. Because of our late start we were forced to stop for the night in an untested RV Park. It was named Olivet RV Park for the olive orchard that surrounded it. As it turned out this RV Park was also a camp for some organization from British Columbia (maybe even a church camp). However, this time of the year, we were the only patrons for the night. It was a nice quiet place (except for the occasional coyote howl) with showers, electricity and water. What more can one ask?
Our two rigs on the first night camping
The olive groves
the church camp
Our next stop was Guerra Negro (meaning Black Warrior) named for a vessel that had been shipwrecked in the lagoon in the 1700s. It is one of the largest salt producers in the world. They use a natural process where they pump water into ponds and let the water evaporate naturally leaving behind the salt. Because of the high salt content in the lagoon it is a very popular breeding ground for the grey whale because the babies are more buoyant and it's easier for them to stay afloat after their birth. It is also shallow and therefore warmer so the natural predators of the grey whale are absent from this area. Naturally we decide to book on a whale watching expedition. It turned out to be amazing. The whales return to lagoon every year around January to have their babies. There were hundreds of whales. You could look out across the water to see dozens of them spraying the water as they came up for air. They rolled in the waves and even breached out of the water. A mom and baby came and played near our boat, passing under it and allowing us to reach over the side to pet her. It was a little scary having this massive thing pass under us. We were told that once in a while they get a little too friendly and bump the boat. I’m glad this was not one of those “friendly” mamas. It turned out to be an experience of a life time!
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Ready for the adventure
Big mama taking a dive
Little baby checking us out
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Paula reaching out to touch the mama whale (notice the barnacles on her skin above my finger)
One of the phenomenons of this area is this valley called Valle de Los Cirios. It's a cactus that grows only in this area. It looks like something out of a Doctor Suess Book. They are very tall with a leaf like growth and arms that grow in all directions. The other unique thing about the valley is the piles of boulders that you see for miles. It looks like a giant child had a great time piling up these rocks and arranging them all around. It was quite a sight to see.
Catavina (land of boulders)
the Cirios Cactus are the "furry" ones
Large pile of rocks
More boulders and cactus
The next day we headed further south and took a side trip to the town of San Ignacio to have breakfast. While there we stopped to see the mission located in the beautiful town square and the local museum that tells all about the famous cave paintings. We parked our vehicles about a half mile outside town. Along the walk to town we saw local wildlife including some white Egrets flying around the lake and a loose horse running down the street. Only in Mexico!
Bob, Pat, and Warren in the town square
Mission at San Ignacios
Cave Painting (7 feet high)
The Lake going into San Ignacios
Then we headed south to a beach that our friends have used many times called Sanispac (not sure of the spelling). You drive down a gravel road through a gate and out onto the beach. What a beautiful sight. It’s on the Conception Bay so the water is like glass. There was a bit of wind when we arrived so our outdoor activity was cut short. The next morning was calm and beautiful. We walked around the shoreline and met a couple that had sailed from Anacortes, Washington. They stopped in the bay for the night on their way to La Paz.
Warren enjoying Sanispac Beach
A view of Sanispac from the road above
More to come...
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